Italy (1)
Two days after our wedding, we took off for, yay!, our honeymoon! Our plan was to fly to Milan and then ... well, see! We did have a rental car reserved, and had bought a Lonely Planet, but as usual, that was the extent of our planning. We love it this way, although it is probably true that we spend some time in places that are not as nice as what we could see otherwise. But yay for spontaneous traveling!
After we arrived safely in Milan, we got our tiny, tiny car. A Fiat Panda for those of you who remember this excuse for a car. Truth be told, it was not a bad car aside from the trunk, which was seriously maxed out after we put in my one suitcase.
Having read the Lonely Planet over coffee at the airport, we decided to go to Cinque Terre first. Cinque Terre is a row of little villages that are glued to the cliffs of the Mediterranean coast. There is a trail that connects the villages which runs along those very cliffs. Because the Cinque Terre villages are not open to cars, but are easily accessible from the nearby city La Spezia, we decided to stay in La Spezia. On the way there, we stopped for lunch in another beautiful coastal town. This is where we had our first Italian meal. The food in Italy leaves me sighing, it's so good. I just love it. For the entire trip, I was basically constantly looking forward to our next meal.
La Spezia is a nice town near the Mediterranean. I like towns that are authentic in the sense that they have a character, a specific atmosphere. I especially liked La Spezia because there were very few tourists there. We found a simple hotel and spent the evening walking around the town center, which has quite a number of pedestrian streets, as well as a town square. I am a big fan of pedestrian areas and especially town squares; I just love strolling around, ideally with some ice cream in my hand, and watching all the people, families, kids and dogs running around, people playing music ... although this doesn't exist much in the U.S., I firmly believe that it is something people like and enjoy. There is a reason that coffee houses and bookstores are becoming (poor) substitutes for town squares. Luckily, there does seem to be a move back towards such spaces. At any rate. La Spezia was nice. We walked around the little streets and climbed some that were so steep that they were just stairs. No car, in particular not our Fiat Panda, could climb such streets.
The next morning, we took a train over to the closest village in Cinque Terre, called Riomaggiore. After we got off, we climbed a few stairs up to a little cafe/restaurant, where we spent a blissful hour having a light lunch. The cafe/restaurant was somewhat outside of the village, but it was set right on top of the cliff. We could not even see the village. All we could see was the cliffs to our right and our left, and the water. What a spectacular place. The weather was perfect, we were almost the only people in this gorgeous spot .... it could not have been more perfect.
After lunch, we took the short walk over to the village. The village, as well as the other four villages of Cinque Terre is very cute albeit quite overrun with tourists. Almost all the houses, all of which are quite old, are painted in different colors. This, against the spectacular backdrop of the cliffs, the sea, and the mountains behind the village, makes for a truly beautiful sight. This has to be one of the most gorgeous views I have ever seen in Italy, if not in the world. In this case, the villages simply enhanced this beauty. What I liked especially is that the people that built these villages worked with the terrain, not against it. The village is, and how could it not be, very hilly. A stroll down the main street is quite a workout! Usually I feel that man-made constructs take away from the beauty of landscape.
After our little stroll (and probably some ice cream -- I can't remember for sure, but it's a very good guess), we headed on the trail to walk to the nearest village. The trail meandered along the coast line, quite a bit up in the hills. It was a nice walk, and such a relaxing day. We even laid down on the ground somewhere along the trail and took a nap in the shade. I love, love, love travling with Guy! The second village was quite nice as well, with a nicer water access (i.e., beach) than the first one. You can't really call it a beach, since there isn't much space there before the hill takes off, but there is some water access there. We saw a third village that day which actually rests on top of a hill rather than the previous two being glued to the side of the cliff. And yet again, I have to express my deepest awe for the original villagers - they had the sense to build a central village square even in a village that would house only several hundred people. A village square simply gives the town a character.
After we had climbed up to the third village, we took the train back to La Spezia, and proceeded to take a nap. Siesta, excuse me. That is just a must. You do your thing during the day, then you take a nap, and then you go out for a nice dinner and enjoy the mild Italian evening. On that evening and the following, we had amazing tuna, very rare and very tasty. Not the kind of meal I would have necessarily envisioned having in Italy, but it was so good. So good indeed.
About the only thing that is cheap in Italy is the wine. With a normal dinner, for which you pay $12-15 per entree, you get about half a liter of goood house wine for about $8. It's brilliant. Needless to say, we took advantage of this opportunity. Hey, it's cheap and good, what's not to like? As an aside, everything else in Italy is extremely expensive. Car rental, hotels, meals, highway robbers (they call it toll), of course gas,... We did not care too much, we were on our honeymoon after all. But it did mean that we did not stay in hotels that could, by any (U.S.) measure, be considered fancy.
The following day we headed back to Cinque Terre to see the last two villages we had not yet seen. They were in fact similar to the other two, but we very much enjoyed the two-hour hike between them. It was quite hilly, and therefore quite the hike, but it was so beautiful and it was good to move! Once we made it to village #5 (you may have noticed that I recall only one of the village names...), we headed straight to the beach. There was in fact a beach there. As soon as I got in the water, I got stung by a jellyfish. When I looked, I saw an entire family of jellyfish right next to me! One or two bigger ones, and several smaller ones. This somewhat spoiled the swimming experience for me, but I did have a great, great time lying on the beach, and probably taking a nap, while Guy braved the wild waters of the Mediterranean (incidentally, withouot getting stung by jellyfish himself). One thing to note about this last village is that we got pizza from some whole-in-the-wall excuse for a restaurant, and it was spectacular! Definitely the best pizza we had in Italy on this trip, and this is a big compliment. Guy still talks about this pizza.
I will continue with a report from our trip hopefully some time in the near future. After Cinque Terre, we headed over to Tuscany, but this warrants a whole entry of its own.
